If you are buying an expensive piece of jewelry that you have saved for years to buy, then first and foremost- buy a loupe and learn to use it. A loupe is a special type of magnifying glass, specifically designed for the minute examination of cut stones and precious metals. Though this may first seem an intimidatingly professional tool this is really a reasonable prelude to buying an expensive piece of jewelry. The loupe can show in much finer detail than the naked eye all those tell-tale characteristics that are all-important in determining whether the ring or necklace is appropriate for you. Chips, bubbles or cracks will show clearly, the quality of a cut gem or the craftsmanship that went into its mounting, the creativity that went into the design and the balance of the design will also show.

Loupes are sold at optical supply stores for a reasonable price [about $10-$15] with the most standard being the 10x magnification. This grade allows for best possible view without warping or visual distortion

Today there are more and more jewelry designers making a name for themselves with innovative new designs never been seen before. The average buyer has a lot to choose from, and the sheer range and diversity of pieces you may encounter may be perplexing at first glance. Recognizing the basic designs can help you make a choice you will be happy with for many years and allow you to judge whether you're getting what you paid for. There are several classic designs that are the still the most popular in the market today, but before choosing a design that you like, be careful to watch out for the basic quality indicators of the piece. It is important you choose a mounting suitable for the purpose of the jewelry you're buying. Eliminate options by the way the piece will be worn in the future. Generally, rings and bracelets should be more durable and practical than earrings. If you're choosing a wedding ring that will be worn everyday and be subjected to climate change, different humidity levels throughout the day, water and so forth, buying a practical, secure mounting is very important. Thin gold rings or poorly clasped rings will bend or break very easily.

If you're looking for a special piece that will be worn only occasionally, the more fanciful designs may be the right choice for you. It is also important that you look closely at the back of the piece. Roughly finished rings or clasps and prongs that have not been secured tightly are a sure sign of sloppy workmanship and this is the first indicator that the ring or bracelet will not last very long. If they are clasps or moveable prongs, check if they work before purchase. Some are ill-designed and will work after some prodding, though buying such a piece is never recommended and some look perfectly fine but are faulty, broken or welded too strongly to be viable. Bracelets should be comfortably opened and closed with one hand. Lack of manufacturers trademarks or smudged and indistinct markings are also a sure sign that you should be wary of buying the piece. Every piece you buy, even if it's not made of very expensive materials and alloys, should be well-made and the craftsmanship should show.

Prongs holding precious stones should be identical in size, securely tightened and their tips should cover the girdle line. If you are using a loupe, look to see that the stone is truly held in place. On the other hand, no more than a third of the stone's table should be covered by the prongs- this should be a warning signal to you that you are either examining a poorly made piece of jewelry or a fraudulent attempt to mask the real identity of the stone. Also tap the stone lightly with your fingers. Any movement is a definite bad sign that it is loosely mounted and very vulnerable.